Rikishi - My Mark III


The Mark III is a Mini Sumo robot. It’s a well engineered and complete kit, designed by a group from the Portland Area Robotics Society. It’s a great kit for a good price and can be purchased at Junun. This is also a good place for competitive priced robotics parts!

I made some changes. On the picture below, one wheel is removed to shown some of them.

Blue with new battery packs

First, I connected the line sensors with connectors on 4-pin headers, facing downward on the controller board. (I did see this on the net, but couldn’t find it. Please tell me where if you know and I will reference it).

You can see the battery replacement. I did not like the combination of (four) AA batteries and one 9V battery, so I replaced them six rechargeable (NiMH) AA batteries. At first, I used the original AA battery holder and placed a second AA holder at the front like Dave did on his Marauder. Since I had some problems with bad contacts on the batteries and the higher point-of-gravity decreased stability, the battery holders where replaced by three ‘battery-packs’. Each battery-pack consists of two AA NiMH batteries, tied together with 6 cm of heat-shrink tubing. The two packs at the bottom are fixed with tie-wraps through 3.5 mm holes. The top pack is fixed with Velcro strips. To fit them in, the controller board is raised 5mm, using nylon rings and longer screws. The terminal block is replaced by a kren (see top view below), so the batteries can be disconnected and charged with the 7.2V charger of our RC-car.

The Sharp sensors are placed on an aluminum plate, which is more stable and less vulnerable. Pay special attention to the M3 hex nut on the bottom, below the sensor. This tilts the sensor slightly in perspective to the plate, which increases the reading of the sensor. On top, you can see the control panel, which is shown below.

Blue's control panel, indicating subsumtion level and sensor activity.

The control panel is based on the Mark III prototype board kit. This kit makes it possible to keep the wires and soldering at the bottom while soldering the 40-pin header on the top side.

The control panel consists four leds (which I currently use to display information from the Sharp sensors and drive-direction), a buzzer, a TIL311 hex display (various functions), an extra reset button (red), three control-buttons (white) and a dip-switch.

The first opponent was the ‘red’ twin of my ‘blue’ Mark III.  You can take a look at an early match of red and blue.

Red and Blue

The next opponents were the robots of Erwin  and the Kristof at the first meeting of the ROBOT MC group. Actually, non of the sumo robots was fully prepared for the match, but is was fun. Kristof his robot seems to be the strongest opponent and I do look forward to our next match.

2006 update

At first, blue had an oopic controller, which turned out to be too limited. I replaced it by a Microchip PIC 16f877 and use programming language JAL. The software architecture is a straight-forward subsumption implementation.

The friction of the tires is improved with Tigerbotics Traction Tires and two Sharp IS471F Proximity Detector are added to fill in the blind spot of the Sharp GP2D12 Distance Measuring Sensor between 0 and 10 cm.


Rikishi with traction tires and proximity detectors

For the 2005 RobotMC open championship, the robot was named rikishi and finished at the second place.

In the 2006, it took the first place at the RobotMC open championship, in 2007 it finished second again.


Links:          My Robots


Joep Suijs